In the UK, choose SPF 30+ with 4–5-star UVA or the EU “UVA-in-a-circle” mark. In South Africa, look for the CANSA Seal and broad-spectrum protection (UVA/UVB), ideally SPF 30–50 given higher UV levels.
What actually works for lines, firmness & texture?
- Retinoids (retinol/retinal, prescription tretinoin): The best-studied topical class for photoageing—improve fine lines, texture and epidermal/dermal thickness over time. Start low, go slow, and buffer with moisturizer to limit irritation.
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) & antioxidants: Support collagen and help with dullness/uneven tone; look for stabilized formulas and opaque/air-tight packaging. (General evidence varies by formula; sunscreen remains primary defence.)
- Niacinamide (2–10%): Barrier support, brightness, and improved texture; well-tolerated for daily use and often pairs well with retinoids.
- Acids (AHA/PHA) in low/moderate strength: Help smooth texture. Introduce gradually, especially with retinoids. (Evidence and tolerance vary—patch-test.)
Reality check: Over-the-counter “anti-ageing” claims vary. Retinoids have the strongest track record; many other claims depend on the exact product and concentration. Sunscreen remains the top anti-ageing tool.
Photoprotection (non-negotiable)
- United Kingdom: Use SPF 30+ and look for 4–5-star UVA or the EU UVA-in-a-circle logo; reapply and combine with shade/clothing.
- South Africa: CANSA advises broad-spectrum sunscreens and recognizes products via the CANSA Smart Choice Seal; SA research groups advise SPF 50+ with UVA cover for high UV contexts and sensitive/dermatologic conditions.
- For hyperpigmentation / melanin-rich skin: Tinted (iron-oxide) sunscreens can reduce visible-light–induced pigment worsening (e.g., melasma, PIH).
How to choose a moisturizer (SA & UK)
Look for:
- Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) to pull in water,
- Emollients/occlusives (squalane, shea, petrolatum) to soften & seal,
- Ceramides to reinforce the barrier—useful as retinoids and cooler/drier seasons can increase dryness. (CeraVe and similar barrier creams are widely available in the UK; Eucerin and similar lines are common in SA.)
South Africa — example availability & typical price bands (as listed by retailers):
- Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler Day SPF 30 (50 ml) — anti-ageing moisturizer with HA and SPF; listed around R 590 at Clicks.
- The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% (30 ml) — serum seen at Dis-Chem with current pricing displayed on its product page. (Check your local store page for up-to-date price.)
United Kingdom — example availability:
- CeraVe Moisturising Cream (454 g) — ceramides + HA barrier cream, widely stocked at Boots (see brand and product pages).
- La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum — retinol + niacinamide formulation, available at Boots and the brand’s UK site.
- La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 SPF50+ — high UVA/UVB protection; look for this or any SPF 30–50+ meeting UK UVA criteria.
Prices/promotions change frequently—use the retailer links to confirm current pricing and local stock. (Links under References.)
Simple starter routines (customize to skin tolerance)
Morning (SA & UK)
- Gentle cleanse (optional if not oily)
- Serum (pick one): vitamin C or niacinamide
- Moisturizer with ceramides/humectants
- Broad-spectrum SPF (UK: SPF 30+ with 4–5-star UVA / EU UVA circle; SA: CANSA-endorsed, SPF 30–50+)
Evening
- Cleanse
- Retinoid (start 2–3 nights/week, then increase)
- Moisturizer (barrier-supporting)
* If using AHAs, alternate with retinoids—don’t layer at the same time if you’re sensitive.
Pigmentation-prone / melanin-rich skin
- Favor niacinamide, azelaic acid (if suitable), retinoids, and tinted sunscreen for visible-light protection.
Sensitive skin tips
- Patch-test new actives; buffer retinoids with moisturizer; pause actives when irritated and maintain SPF.
Country-specific nuances
South Africa
- Higher year-round UV makes photoprotection critical: favor SPF 50+ broad-spectrum with diligent reapplication and shade/clothing. CANSA-approved sunscreens indicate independent testing to South African and international standards.
- Local dermatology groups have recently issued integrated sun-protection advice tailored to SA’s multi-ethnic population (including guidance for inflammatory skin conditions).
United Kingdom
- Label literacy: pick SPF 30+, UVA 4–5 stars or the UVA-in-a-circle mark; apply adequate amounts and reapply. National charities and the BAD offer easy checklists.
- Availability: broad ranges of retinoids/niacinamide/barrier creams and high-UVA sunscreens are stocked across Boots and other high-street retailers; check product pages below.
References (validate here)
- UK guidance: NHS — Sunscreen & sun safety; BAD — Sun Protection Fact Sheet; Cancer Research UK — Sun safety. (nhs.uk, BAD Patient Hub, Cancer Research UK)
- UVA labelling: BAD Patient Hub (UVA stars, EU UVA-in-a-circle); British Skin Foundation explainer. (BAD Patient Hub, britishskinfoundation.org.uk)
- Evidence on retinoids/OTC efficacy: PubMed reviews (retinoids & anti-ageing; formulation/irritancy considerations); balanced journalism on variable OTC claims. (PubMed, ABC)
- South Africa photoprotection: CANSA Seal & recommendations; SA integrated sun-protection reviews; Mediclinic SA tips. (cansa.org.za, UPSpace Repository, Wiley Online Library, PubMed, mediclinic.co.za)
- Retail availability (examples):
- South Africa: Eucerin Hyaluron-Filler Day SPF 30 at Clicks; Eucerin SA product page; The Ordinary at Dis-Chem (serum + brand pages with current SA pricing). (Clicks, Dis-Chem)
- United Kingdom: CeraVe Moisturising Cream (Boots & brand pages); The Ordinary Niacinamide (Boots); La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 (Boots & brand UK); Anthelios UVMune 400 (Boots). (Boots, cerave.co.uk, La Roche-Posay)